My wife and I were touring by car through the remote
desolation of County Clare in Western Ireland.
That morning we explored on foot the extraordinary
karst landscape of the Burren, vast slabs of whitish limestone
pavement furrowed by deep, narrow crevices called grikes,
within which flourished a profusion of multihued plant life,
including rare orchids.
Now we were heading north and west, towards the purple
mountains.
This was truly empty country. The occasional plume of
peat smoke rose from isolated cottages scattered across
the harsh terrain. Otherwise, little sign of life.
Then something caught my eye. A glint, a flash, off to
the side of the road. A reflecting surface transiently
capturing a shaft of sunlight. Curious, I pulled off the asphalt
and left the car.
I was drawn towards an obelisk, towering feet above my
head. Beautiful pyramidal stone, badly weathered in places,
with scattered clumps of moss partly concealing prime
Connemara marble.
I spotted a gold-coloured plaque at the top, the
source of the flash which had attracted my attention.
Intrigued, I battled my way up a hillock, through
nettles, briar and tearing thorns. When I was close enough to
read the inscription I paused. The words I screwed up my
eyes to distinguish created the emotional response which
has kept the memory alive. Disbelief, frustration, but, most of
all, laughter. I doubled over and roared. This is what I read:
“On this very spot, on the ninth of March, 1876,
absolutely nothing happened.”
Only in Ireland!